Forno da Telha: A well-cooked Alentejo, by the hands of Chef Miguel Rocha Vieira

Source: Evasões

The Quinta do Poço Novo, built in the 19th century in front of Évora’s Nova Porta de Aviz gate, has been reborn as Forno da Telha. Here, Miguel Rocha Vieira pays tribute to the region's ingredients and traditional recipes with a touch of innovation.

Over two months of fieldwork, Miguel Rocha Vieira traveled through the Alentejo countryside, speaking with “the elderly in the villages, tasting dishes from different areas, and visiting producers” of olive oil, cured meats, and other regional gems. His goal was to ensure that “nothing and no one” from the restaurant world influence the creative process behind Forno da Telha. In this first restaurant by hotel management group Ace Hospitality Management (which operates units under international brands such as Hilton and Marriott), located right in front of Évora’s Porta de Aviz, the chef dives deep into the region’s essence.

From the generous sharing of knowledge by locals, Rocha Vieira brought back, for example, sopa da panela alentejana (a hearty Alentejo-style soup); migas gatas with spinach (a beautiful example of creativity born from historical scarcity, made mainly with bread, water, and olive oil), which accompanies brined and grilled pike-perch with sausage sauce; and wild boar empadas with pear and nut salad, to name just a few of the starters. Before that, it’s practically mandatory to nibble on olives and spread pork butter on sourdough bread made in Vimieiro.

The olive oil served here is exclusive, the chef explains. “The olives — Cobrançosa, Picual, and Arbosana — were personally selected by me at Lagar do Vale, in Serpa. It has a fruity aroma, a hint of green apple, a bold flavor, and a slightly spicy finish.” If desired, it can be purchased at the entrance hall, which also serves as a wine cellar with nearly a hundred labels and a meeting point for the public with local winemakers and sommeliers — an idea envisioned by Cristiano Santos, the house director and host of wine tastings, including traditional talha wines.

The clay used to make talhas — a tradition deeply rooted in Vila de Frades, Vidigueira — is echoed here in the material of the roof tiles. According to the restaurant’s research, the story dates back to the 19th century, when General Godinho Caeiro found a well next to a brick factory with a roof tile kiln. Resourcefully, he used the kiln to “fire the walls” of the Quinta do Poço Novo, which he equipped with its own oven and a chapel for his wife to pray in. That history is now reflected in the decor, where traditional materials are given a modern twist across the various dining rooms.

Back at the table, it’s clear that the main dishes also showcase Miguel Rocha Vieira’s creative touch. Highlights include marinated pork shoulder with potato migas and grilled romaine lettuce hearts, codfish with chickpeas, stewed cod tongues, swim bladders, and chouriço. On Sundays at lunch, there’s a traditional chickpea stew. Desserts include farófias, served charmingly from a dessert cart.

Learn more about Forno da Telha, here.